This article is to help those that have never assembled the two piece 12 bolt HMMWV or Humvee rims as when I attempted to find information on this, I was less than successful.  Hopefully this will help you shave off some time on what already takes an exorbitant amount of time while being safe in the process.
Now, this is not the end all be all manual on the correct way to do this, but by taking what I know about torque values, heavy machinery, off roading, and my mechanical skills as well as the limited information that I found about this subject, it is the way I will be doing it until I am corrected. 

Todd Whooten at Trail Worthy has been more than helpful in assisting me with my endeavor in the purchase of the rims for my 96 H1 Wagon.  The original one piece rims for the H1 are crap in my opinion.  So much so, that I just ordered my second set with pressed centers for our H2 to replace the aluminum stock rims.

If you are doing this by yourself, look forward to spending about an hour to an hour and a half per rim if you do them individually.  You can cut this time down with the help of a mechanically inclined friend, as well as by treating it as an assembly line if you are doing more than one wheel assembly.  The best way to cut this time down is by repetition and having a list of tools. 

TOOLS NEEDED

If you are going to reuse the 12 crush nuts, then I would recommend re-staking them.  To do this you will need a 1/4" pin punch, and a center punch as seen in the photo.
The new nuts are just under $8.00 each.  The photo shows the new nut on the right with the three stakes in it which essentially presses the threads inward.  The nut on the left went on very easy with very little resistance.  The nut on the right threaded onto the stud very smoothly until it got to the crimp then a tool was required.  If you don't have the 5 sided special socket, then order the later version of crush nuts for standard sockets.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/1.JPG
 

This photo shows the two tools that I used to re-stake the nuts to factoryish "like" shape.  By re-staking the nuts, I was able to duplicate close to the same resistance that the new nuts provided.

Now this photo shows the nut sitting on top of one of the mounting holes of my work bench vice.  The hole serves two purposes. The first is to prevent the bottom of the threads from being damaged from the pin punch by the tip of the punch resting on the bench below the nut.  The second purpose of the pin punch resting in the mounting hole is that it maintains the position of the nut preventing it from moving around. 


This photo shows the method of which I held the two punches allowing my to use the ball peen hammer to strike the CENTER punch only.  By holding the punches this way, the downward force of the center punch with the accompanying sideways force due to the angle of the center punch causes both punches to shoot outward making the required indention's into the top corner of the threads.  It is important to double strike the center punch to ensure that you get a good strike.  The first strike is merely a locating strike followed by the second strike which is a strong rap on the punch.  I would suggest practicing this on a similar size nut to get the hang of it before doing this on one of the actual nuts you will be using for the assembly.


As you can see from this photo, it is almost identical to the original with the exception of the extra stake.  Again, when I installed the refurbished nuts, I was able to duplicate the resistance that the original provided.  Now as far as metallurgy goes, I am not sure how this affects the nut.  Do this at your own risk in lieu of purchasing new crush nuts.

This photo shows the Pilot Washers which are an absolute necessity if you are wanting any chance of balancing the wheel assembly for on road driving.  Trust me, if you don't use these $.72 x 3 washers during your assembly there is a good chance that your wheel will try to escape from your rig when going faster than 30mph.  While driving my H1 40mph, I estimated a 1-1/2" bounce by watching the brush guard and the road.  After reassembling the wheels with the three pilot washers, it made all the difference.  You will use three per wheel equally spaced on the rim.  One additional thing that I did after getting them balanced is buy centrifical force balancers from www.centramatics.com.  It throws shot and hydraulic fluid to the lightest portion of the wheel throughout the installed tube to dynamically balance the wheel assembly.


This photo shows the pilot washer installed thus making the inner and outer wheel components concentric with each other.

This photo shows the three pilot washers installed correctly spaced apart.

To assemble the rim and tire, you will need to elevate the rim off of the ground since the tire face will be lower than the backside of the rim.  You have to keep the outside of the rim facing up so that when the tire is installed, and the rim face is installed, the O-ring does not fall or pop out of the O-ring channel.  It is recommended to use another rim with medium or high density foam or cardboard to keep the two rims from sliding around.  If you use the soft low density foam, you take chance of it being pinched in between the new tire and rim causing a leak.  The stiffer foam will not pinch and maintains it's shape.

Here is where opinions may differ.  I coated the 12 studs with Permatex anti-seize #80078.  This helps the nuts down the stud and limits the heat that is going to be generated by the immense pressure and beating you are about to administer to them like they owe you money.


Trust me on this... coat the studs with anti-seize before putting the green goo on.  I did it backwards as you can see.  This got anti seize on the O-ring which I had to wipe off.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/11.JPG

Here is another point in which ideas may differ.  I used tire slime for a few reasons.  The first is that it acts as a lubricant for when you are beating the $#!^ out of the 12 crush nuts to compress the tire with the two halves of the rim and squeezing the bead lock.  It helps the inner diameter of the tire bead slide over the outer diameter of the rim bead so that there is no binding.  It also helps seal the two parts together as it's intended purpose.  I also filled the O-ring channel to help keep the sealing O-ring in place while assembling the two halves.  Note the lack of Anti-Seize, which you should have already applied which I forgot to.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/12.JPG

A close up of the same photo and the applicator.  You can use a standard paint brush though.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/13.JPG

Now THIS IS IMPORTANT.  This picture shows the factory HUMMER O-Ring.  Notice how it's diameter is smaller than the O-Ring Channel. IF YOU PLACE THIS NOW, IT WILL BE IMPOSSIBLE TO GET A SEAL ON YOUR WHEEL.  THIS IS THE VERY LAST THING YOU INSTALL.  I WILL GO INTO DETAIL LATER.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/14.JPG

Close up of the O-Ring.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/15.JPG

This photo shows the O-Ring properly installed for illustration.  Notice the Slime on the O-Ring and correct diameter which matches the O-Ring channel after the O-Ring was stretched out.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/16.JPG

Now, while I was waiting for this to happen, I was working on something else.  It took about five minutes for the O-Ring to shrink back down to size and pop out of the channel.  Look closely at about 2 O-clock.  This is why it is important to do this last.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/17.JPG

This photo shows the installation of the valve stem O-Ring with the same green slime.  Torque the 12 bolt valve stem lock nut to 40-60 lb-in per HUMMER.  Don't over torque this as the O-ring will mushroom out.  Out of the 10 rims that I have assembled, not one has leaked at the valve stem O-ring from the 40-60 inch pounds of torque.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/18.JPG

This photo shows the nylock nut installed with the valve stem.  Nylock nuts are supposed to be single use, and it would be a shame to have one of these work it's way off after you have gone through everything to assemble these.  They are very cheap and worth getting.  If you are going to reuse them, then at least use Loctite Blue to help keep them in place.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/19.JPG

Now we move on to the magnesium run-flat installation.  Here are the four shoulder bolts with crush nuts.  The nuts if reused should be re-crimped like before, however it is a little different.  You will see clearly on the nuts when you have them that there are three triangular crimps on the top inner lip of the threads in the same location as the larger crush nuts.  Some have four crimps.  Either way, if you replace them, make sure all four are identical so that the assembly remains balanced.  To re-crimp them lay them face up in a vice with the vice open about 3/8" so that one side of the nut is down inside of the gap in the vice and one of the flats of the nut is resting on the vice lip.  Find a pin punch that is the same size of the triangular crimp, and give it a good wrap.  This will fold the inside corner of the thread down just like the larger nut.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/20.JPG


Another photo of the bolts and nuts.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/21.JPG

I took a wire wheel brush and sanding disk and cleaned up the run-flats so that it would help the balancing of the wheels.  BE CAREFUL as YOU ARE WORKING WITH MAGNESIUM WHICH IS FLAMMABLE.  This is not a fire that you want to mess with, especially with water.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/22.JPG

The first thing you will do, is ensure that the tire is clean on the inside and that there are no defects in the tire.  Also, make sure your shoes are clean and the area where you are standing is free of any debris.  Place one half of the run-flat inside the bottom of the tire as seen in the photo.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/23.JPG

Next, turn the run-flat counter clockwise and rotate it into the tire with just a small portion of the end of the run-flat sticking out like in the photo.  I put one foot on the left, and one foot on the right of the tire and my chest on the top of the tire to stabilize it.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/24.JPG

Next, rotate the tire 180 degrees so that the first half is positioned just like in the photo.  Next place the second half into the tire as seen in the photo, and rotate it clockwise popping it into the tire.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/25.JPG

This is what it will look like when you pop it in.  Next with the heal of your shoe, gently kick the flat surface until it pops the rest of the way in.  BE CAREFUL.  If the second half does not clear the first half, you can damage one of the halves or both.  If it is not lined up right, rotate it back out and insert it back into the tire a little more to either side so that when it is popped in, the two halves will clear each other when you are kicking it in with your shoe.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/26.JPG

Once it is in, put your chest on the top of the tire and put one hand in either side, and man handle the two halves together so that you can insert the shoulder bolts.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/27.JPG

Now.  Here is food for thought and my rationalization.  The shoulder bolts when fully assembled in my opinion should be installed so that the bolt head is facing the same direction of the tire travel which is easy to determine due to the chevrons on the tire.  The method to my madness is that if the nut loosens from the bolt at high speed, then the bolt will at least stay in the hole of the run flat due to centrifical force of the wheel.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/28.JPG

Another photo showing the direction of the bolt installation in relation to the direction of tire spin.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/29.JPG

Run-flat shoulder bolt installation.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/30.JPG

Once you have the one side of the run-flat aligned, install the two bolts and tighten them down only until they stop with a standard socket wrench and box wrench.  Don't over tighten and bind the two halves of the run-flat together or use the bolts to pull them together.  I reused the crush nuts, so in addition to re-staking them, I used Loctite Blue.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/31.JPG

Once the one side of the run-flat is secured with finger tight bolts, rotate the wheel like in the photo.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/32.JPG

Place your clean shoe on top of the run-flat surface and press down sharply to expose the side of the run-flat that does not have the bolts installed.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/33.JPG

Firmly hold the tire so that it doesn't fall over and break your ankle.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/34.JPG

Install the last set of two bolts and nuts and use Loctite Blue on them.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/35.JPG

Next torque them down to 22 lb-ft.  Remember, Loctite is installation time sensitive and dries in about ten minutes.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/36.JPG

Photo of installed and torqued bolt.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/37.JPG

Another photo of installed and torqued bolt.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/38.JPG

Next, rotate the tire 180 degrees again so that the torqued bolts are facing down.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/39.JPG

Place your clean shoe on the flat surface again, and firmly push down while holding the tire.  Torque the second and final set of bolts to 22 lb-ft.  Then rotate the tire 180 degrees again and with your clean show firmly push the run-flat down so that the it is centered inside the tire.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/40.JPG

Next, with a dead blow hammer, lightly strike the flat inside surface of the run-flat or bead lock so that it is concentric with the tire using your Mark one eyeball.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/41.JPG

This photo shows the tire that has been prepped with the green slime on the bead, with the installed magnesium run-flat ready to go.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/42.JPG

Get help for this.  The tire is heavy so use your legs and not your back. ;-)  It is easy to dislodge the run-flat from being concentric with the tire so don't bounce the tire or lean against the tire deforming it which will cause the run-flat to move.  This will pay off when you go to get the wheels balanced.  Every little ounce matters when it comes to balancing.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/43.JPG

Carefully position the tire on your knees if you are by yourself to get ready to lower the tire.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/44.JPG

Carefully lower the tire assembly over the rim half being careful not to dislodge the rim from the pedestal it is sitting on.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/45.JPG

Notice the distance between the tire bead and the rim lip where the O-ring channel is.  It is close to two inches.  This is why you will want to use an impact wrench and have a cordless impact wrench on the trail if you ever have to take one of these monsters apart and put them back together.  On top of the distance, you will also have to contend with the resistance that the crush nuts will provide when tightening them down to compress the two halves of the rim together.  But, the reason for this picture is to show that you will absolutely need to stretch the O-ring out so that it will rest inside the channel without popping out while you are assembling the top half of the rim.  Remember you only have about five minutes for the O-ring to shrink back down and pop out of the channel which means you will have to start over.

Don't be afraid to stretch this O-ring.  You will feel when it meets it's end resistance.  It will stretch freely and then kind of stop.  I bounce it when it gets to this point.  Once you stretch it, rotate it about 72 degrees and stretch it again for a total of about five rotations.  This is what will buy you time to assemble the top half of the rim.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/46.JPG

This picture shows the back completed assembly ready for the front half of the rim or ring.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/47.JPG

Same picture but a close up.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/48.JPG

Close up of the properly positioned O-ring.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/49.JPG

This photo shows the distance between the inside diameter of the run-flat, and the outside diameter of the rim.  It is about an 1/8th of an inch all the way around.  This is why it is important to ensure that the run-flat is as concentric as possible before lowering the tire assembly on the rim half.  This will help with the balancing of the wheels.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/51.JPG

Now this photo shows the original wheel assembled without the use of the Pilot Washer when I was taking it apart.  Notice the distance between the stud and the inside diameter of the stud hole.  The right side has a big gap, and the left side is touching the stud.  This wheel when assembled was unable to be balanced and when on the vehicle tried to actually escape from the vehicle.  It was very violent at 40mph.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/53.JPG

This is another photo showing how the hole outer ring was pushed counter clockwise against the side of the studs making the wheel completely non concentric.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/54.JPG

This picture shows the Pilot Washer correctly installed.  Make sure that when you first place the rim outer ring on top of the studs, that you pop it down tightly so that the valve stem nylock nut is below the bead.  You will definitely notice it if it isn't below the bead.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/55.JPG

This photo shows the three pilot washers installed with the crush nuts ready to be impacted down to compress the rim outer ring to the rim back half.  These three nuts are enough to compress it, so don't worry about the rest of the nuts until you get the ring down to the O-ring.  Remember, you only have about five minutes to compress it completely.  One thing to note... If one of the studs pops out of the back on you when you are trying to use the impact wrench, DO NOT POP THE WHOLE WHEEL ON IT'S SIDE TO HAMMER IT IN.  THE O-RING WILL FALL OUT OF POSITION.  You will need to have a small ball peen hammer preferably or a 10" craftsmen- 1/2" drive socket wrench which worked to hammer it in.  You don't need to hammer it completely in, just enough for the knurl to bite while you impact it the rest of the way down.  Another note worth mentioning is that some have said that using an impact wrench to drive the crush nuts down thus compressing the outer half of the rim to the back half of the rim has caused the O-ring to pop out from the vibration.  By stretching the O-ring and using the green tire slime, I had absolutely no issues.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/56.JPG

The same rules apply when initially tightening these three crush nuts down.  Hammer them down until all three touch the Pilot Washer face, then keep jumping around so that the rim outer ring compresses down over the tire evenly.  Don't get carried away on one and tilt the ring causing the ring to bind on the studs damaging the threads.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/57.JPG

Next, add the rest of the crush nuts to the studs, and tighten them down completely by finger so you are absolutely sure they do not cross thread.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/59.JPG

Impact them down to the rim.  When you have them all touching, you can then jump around driving them the rest of the way.  While the socket is turning, you will feel the condition of the impact wrench.  You will notice a difference in the severity of the impact when it is close to being bottomed out.  Once you have them all bottomed out, reverse the impact wrench, impact one at a time quickly till you see it break, then re-impact it down quickly again only to seat it.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/61.JPG

Now, I am no mathematical genius in geometry, but I think I can keep track of which studs I am tightening down to ensure that they are evenly torqued.  WRONG.  You will be torquing the regiment down about ten times between the two torque values.  It is a work out, and you can easily be confused.  Save yourself the time, and just mark the studs for a tightening pattern.  Because once you torque them about five times each, you will still notice that every time you start over, they are loose again.  You are basically working the ring down a little at a time.  If you over torque the studs by impacting these nuts down until they stop and call it a day, when you are on the highway, and the temperature of the wheel increases which will cause the psi to increase up to 10psi exceeding the tire's rating, you can start blowing studs out causing an accident.  You will need to torque the nuts of the two piece 12 bolt wheels to a final 110 lb-ft per HUMMER.  This is the way I do it.  I keep torquing in the prescribed pattern at 90 pounds foot until I go around at least twice with an immediate and very very consistent torque indication snap the first time.  I would strongly recommend safety glasses while hovering over the top of these studs in case one pops.  I kept having this image of one popping out on me striking my jugular.  That would have not been a good day.  These are under a tremendous amount of pressure.  On a side note.  If one does pop out while you are out on the road or trail.  It is recommended that you immediately replace it with a new stud and nut, and also change the ones on either side of the failed stud.  Keep spares.  Once all 12 nuts are an equal 90 pounds foot, this tells me that there is no over torquing from the impact wrench.  I then follow the regimen up with the final 110 pounds foot.  I repeat the pattern until I get a consistent immediate snap from the torque wrench.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/62.JPG


                    DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE

To disassemble the wheel assembly, remove the valve stem, or the CTIS hose to let the air out.  IT IS EXTREMELY EXTREMELY IMPORTANT TO MAKE SURE THAT ALL OF THE AIR IS OUT BEFORE YOU START LOOSENING THE CRUSH NUTS.  There will be an explosion and rapid deflation of the tire if you try to remove the nuts with air in the tire.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/a.JPG

ONCE THE AIR PRESSURE IS COMPLETELY DEFLATED, you can impact all 12 of the crush nuts off evenly to prevent binding.  Discard the Pilot Washers for new ones to be installed later.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/b.JPG

Now.  This photo shows the recommended method of removing the outer ring from the wheel assembly.  I came up with this out of necessity as the sledge hammer, solid block of firewood, and splintered 2x4 that you don't see would not budge the ring out of the tire.  Place the wheel face down on top of a towel or something to protect the powder coating when the ring pops off.  Next get a small chunk of 4x4 and place it under your Hilift jack as seen.  Then place the lifting point of the Hi lift inside the side of the H1 bumper, or a suitable and stable lift point on any other rig.  The smaller inner bead of the tire, is compressed onto the larger outer bead of the ring.  What brute force would not budge, finesse popped it right off.  Start jacking it off until it pops. :-)
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/c.JPG

Before jacking, make sure everything is stable and centered.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/d.JPG

The wood will help protect the rim from damage.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/e.JPG

This photo shows the lift point of the Hilift jack fitting nicely inside the side of the bumper of the H1.  It is almost like it was meant for it.  It is a very solid lift point.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/f.JPG

This show the ring popped off.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/g.JPG

Different angle of the ring popped off.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/h.JPG

Close up of the ring popped off and the visible O-ring.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/i.JPG

This photo shows the outer face or ring of the rim successfully removed.  I am not sure of the possibility of reusing the O-ring, but after only a week after this new O-ring was installed, it had a triangular shape to it and still does as of this writing.  Buy a new one.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/j.JPG

This photo shows the same Hilift configuration to pop the back half of the rim out of the tire as it is compressed together just as much as the ring was.  I even maniac'd the tire with the sledge hammer a few times to see if it would pop off.  No luck.  You will have to compress it off.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/k.JPG

Once the tire is in position under the lift area, place a 6" block of 4x4 positioned in between the studs as seen.  This will produce the upward force to counter the downward force of the jack.  Next place the Hilift jack with the edge of the jack near the edge of the rim as seen.  Two people for this really helps as the 4x4 black will want to fall over.  You can also make a jig by placing the studs over the top of a small 4x4 on it's side.  Once the studs make indention's in the wood, take the wood out and drill holes into the wood to be able to just lay the rim on top of the wood without worrying about it falling over with the studs in the holes keeping the block in place.  I was in a hurry.  It was raining.  You will need to stand on the other side of the tire with your foot, to keep the assembly from lifting up once you start to jack.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/l.JPG

Another photo showing proper placement.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/m.JPG

Close up showing the wood placement.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/n.JPG

Photo showing the jack placement.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/o.JPG

Once you start to jack, it will not take long for the bead to pop off.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/p.JPG

Once the bead popped off, I rotated the wheel 180 degrees, and compressed the other side.  This is where a friend will be able to help hold the jack in place while you move the wheel.  Once you reposition it on the opposite side with the 4x4 in place, repeat the jacking to compress and finally pop the rim out.  The gray hydraulic jack is not needed.  It was just in the picture.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/q.JPG

Success.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/r.JPG

Close up.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/s.JPG

Rim removed.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/t.JPG

Different angle.
http://uertslings.com/HumveeH1/u.JPG


I hope that this helps those that have been looking for information on where to start.  The biggest problem on this project was trying to figure out where to begin and the procedure to use to get this done effectively,